Want to uncover the best trails on a beautiful Portuguese island? Fashion stylist Cathy O'Connor embarked on our Madeira Walking Holiday – keep reading to find out how she got on!
"Let's talk about Madeira - no, not the cake nor indeed, the delicious wine. Let's talk about the lush, mellow and unique Atlantic island of Madeira. It spans a mere 57km by 22km but it offers some of the most diverse and beautiful scenery you could imagine. Over a week, I was lucky enough to explore Madeira in the best possible way - hiking with TD active holidays!
Travelling to Madeira
Within three and a half hours, our vista had changed from rainy Dublin to bright, balmy Madeira. Our group of 34 was met at the airport by our charming TD active Holiday representative, Catarina and within 20 minutes, we were checked into our well appointed hotel, the Dom Pedro in the small seaside town of Machico. Catarina talked us through our itinerary for the week ahead and over a filing dinner that night, we all chatted eagerly about the hikes. There's always such a great mix of people on these holidays; solo travellers, walking groups, couples or friends. We all bonded effortlessly with our shared passion for hiking, travelling or simply, being out in nature.
Madeira Levada Trails
At 9am the following morning, we were met with glorious sunshine and by our guides Catarina Katerina and Roberto. As we travelled north west towards Caldeirão Verde Levada, Roberto gave us invaluable insights into the culture, the politics and the daily life of Madeira. Each story enriched our experience and understanding of this captivating island. We stopped at the pretty village of Santana to admire the craft and construction of traditional A frame houses. By 10am we were taking our first steps in the lush valley of São Jorge. This forest path blooms with nature; dense greenery, delicate flowers and elegant laurel trees. In single file, we trekked towards the first of many spectacular waterfalls. There was a meditative and calming aspect to the gentle elevation as we walked by the levadas, following the gentle contours of the mountains. The levadas are man made narrow irrigation systems, some dating back to the 15th century. An ingenious way to distribute water from the wet northern mountains plains to the drier southern end of the island. With many pauses to admire the scenery and catch our breath, we travelled 8.7km to the end. A spectacular view rewarded us; a sweeping vista of this stunning landscape. Our generous packed lunches tasted delicious and with a huge sense of achievement, we ambled back down the path. We passed through four tunnels carved from the rock, all enhancing the element of adventure.
Hiking Pico do Arieiro
After a well earned night's sleep (listening to the gentle sound of the waves), we were back on the coach the next morning, ready for our next adventure. We headed west to Pico do Arieiro, the third highest peak on the island. Madeira's landscape is so diverse; the viewing point overlooked expansive, majestic mountains, a very different vista from the day before. A TD active holiday is so well considered that it offers hikes on selected holidays for those who appreciate a challenge and for those who prefer something more leisurely. Over half of the group opted for the 12km walk with its steep inclines and descents. I chose the 5.4km walk between Achada do Teixeira and Pico Ruivo Ruiva. The views as we manoeuvred our way upwards were dramatic; jagged mountains, tufts of gorse growing anywhere and everywhere and a beautiful expansive blue sky. At over 1,800 metres, we joined those who had really conquered the mountains, all of us in high spirits as we ate our lunch. Photos were taken with smiles all round.
Madeira Coastal Trails
The next day we headed to the most easterly tip of the island, Ponta de São Lourenço. This spectacular coastal walk offered yet another distinct panorama. A partial natural reserve, it has rich flora and fauna. With its exposure to north winds, it has no trees, which allows for impressive, sweeping vistas. The contrast of the barren landscape with the abundance of the surrounding sea was breathtaking. I felt so privileged to be there. Our group had mingled so well that there were always great conversations to be had. It proved such a welcome diversion on these outings. We arrived at a cove by the sea where many of us enjoyed a cooling swim. There was an option to return to our starting point by boat, rather than walking. The small boat took us through some caves as we happily motored our way back.
Rabaçal - 25 Fontes Trail
The following day, our journey to Rabaçal took us through the centre of Madeira. The Madeirenses clearly have a pride in the appearance of their homes as they are all maintained to a high standard. Every bit of land is put to good use in the growing of vegetables, banana trees or sugar cane. As the terrain is so hilly, step agriculture is employed. When we arrived at the view point at Rabaçal, we overlooked the largest valley on the island covered by Laurissilva vegetation, an indigenous forest which has been classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. This trail hosts 25 water springs, alongside the levada. It was heavenly to walk this path in dappled sunshine, sheltered by overgrown trees and with soft, green moss growing through the rocks. Slowly we weaved our way upwards with the sound of the impressive waterfall growing ever nearer. What a thrill it was to hear the roar of the waterfall, feel the energising spray of water as we unpacked our lunch on the rocks. On the return, we walked through a long tunnel, torches lit whilst singing 'Molly Malone' at the top of our voices!
Free time in Madeira - Visit Funchal
After such great active days, it was a treat to have a day at leisure. There are so many wonderful places to see on the island and we opted for a visit to the capital, Funchal. This elegant city houses half the population (120,000 people) but maintains a relaxed and civilised vibe. We visited the Farmers Market with its abundance of delicious fruit, vegetables and exotic fish. The municipal garden was our next stop. Exotic flowers and plants were the colourful backdrop to stalls selling local craft. After a delicious lunch, we then took the cable car from the port to the Botanical Garden, which covers 8 hectares. What an extensive collection of plants; everything from cacti to roses, all at an elevation of between 150 and 300 metres . With the experience of another great day, we headed back to the hotel to lie by that fabulous pool.
Vereda do Fanal Hike
Our last outing was one of the most spectacular , with a visit to the UNESCO natural world heritage site of Vereda do Fanal. The 10.8km trail took us through the ample indigenous Laurissilva forest. To be so completely immersed in nature was a delight; an opportunity to listen to birdsong, breathe fresh air and savour the views. We ate our last lunch in the shade of trees and all agreed what a special day it had been. Our courteous and skilled driver, Vitor, brought us to San Vincente for a well earned cool drink overlooking the sea.
A TD active walking holiday is ideal if you want to make the most of your holiday time by seeing and doing plenty without any of the usual stress of organising it all. These holidays offer the perfect blend of activity and relaxation. The consistent movement of the day was rebalanced by lazy hours spent by the large swimming pool, overlooking the sea. Our buffet dinner provided everything we might have wished for, including my personal favourite, a range of delicious ice creams. Truly, it's all of the pleasure and none of the pain. You'll come home with cherished memories, new friendships and stories to tell."
